Hello all,
Been a while since I posted been enjoying my 2 V7's very much! I was wondering if anyone knew if there is a dish positioner out there that will work with a von wiese 24 inch with the old school glass reed switch?I cant remember if it is 24 volt or 36volt.I would like to retire my 4DTV bc it uses 38 watts of power 24/7 bc of the receiver part of it.And I was looking here and saw someone mentioned a titanium LNB that doesnt need a polorotor so I may be able to retire the 4D and use the v7 to change polarity?
Dish positioner
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Re: Dish positioner
Hello thereed123 wrote:Hello all,
Been a while since I posted been enjoying my 2 V7's very much! I was wondering if anyone knew if there is a dish positioner out there that will work with a von wiese 24 inch with the old school glass reed switch?I cant remember if it is 24 volt or 36volt.I would like to retire my 4DTV bc it uses 38 watts of power 24/7 bc of the receiver part of it.And I was looking here and saw someone mentioned a titanium LNB that doesnt need a polorotor so I may be able to retire the 4D and use the v7 to change polarity?
Ok the only part was about the LNB idid not get but ...
I have this
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http://www.gofastmotorsports.com/vboxii.htm
Cons:
. relay is noisy if you go step by step, is tac tac tac like a hammer knocking in metal. My wife made me change for this one
. Not 100% accurate it may jump 2 steps at the same time
. Cheap construction
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https://www.titaniumsatellite.com/asc1
Cons:
. 4 times the price of the first one
. ON MY CASE was messing up with power inserter (4x8 switch) as result polarities were a mess(*)
. It weights a ton
. It is twice the size of the other one
. The screen numbers are too small you wont see them further than 6 feet the other has HUGE led numbers
(*) For this issue I had to remove it. I did not have this issue with my other antena that uses a simple 4x1 diseqc
Now the LNB's
I started with this
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https://www.titaniumsatellite.com/c1pll
This is the only that solved that problem
Because I had 2 receivers I changed into this:
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https://www.titaniumsatellite.com/c2wpll
I had an array of 2 C band C2WPLL along with an universal KU so taking advantage of the Prime Focus 2,4m (* Ft) solid dish ! C Band LNB was for Circular Polarity SAt (40,5 and 47.5 W) and the other linear polarity
And of course the Ku Band Universal is a cheap US$ 5 value.
on Ku it did not increase the signal strength tough but increased the quality, I did see the strength change when raining, on my 1,2m was pixelate, on my 76 lost signal and 2.4m some pixels lost but not whole image.
No I changed all that
Replaced with different system
The feedhorn is now Bulleye II Ku and C band simultaniusly
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http://www.chaparral.net/feed-horns/bullseye-2/
Is another moving piece of motor, needed a skew/polarity "mover" (like the Titanium ASC1) . So I said my self up there with the moist and heat of Miami wont last one year that will have issues
I was primarily thinkinng on C band Only
like
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http://www.chaparral.net/feed-horns/dual-feed/
The answer is: NO
Just Only C band and will save US $700
Or even more if does not bother you te servo you will save the value of anther LNB $200
(**) I use 2 Norsat 3120 and 2 Norsat 1106HA
Don't get me wrong is a HUGE jump is jumping from Novice to professional grade.
but the Ku part does not justified as I told you. The Universal cheap LNB works better due the fact of the frequency. The Norsat downconverter blocks works on standard 10750MHZ and there are some sats frequencies it does not catch..
Hope it helps and clarify before invest
MarSat
Re: Dish positioner
Way too many live direct links. Please use code. I fixed it for you this time.
Re: Dish positioner
Thank you Marsat for that info.
In my system I have the traditional co-rotor 2 with C/Ku LNB's on a 12 ft paraclipse dish I put up in 1984 the von weise 24" arm is from about 1987 it still in good shape along with a 4DTV receiver that the programming got shut down on 2 years ago as my positioner and H/V polarity.So I bought 2 V8's about 2 years ago and then switched to 2 V7's in January 2017 but the only way to change polarity from H/V is to change the channel from an odd to even number on the 4DTV receiver which makes blind scanning a nightmare on the V7's,but since there's no way to make the V7's or V8's change polarity with the old style corotor2 So I saw a post here and ended up purchasing a Titanium c-band 15 degree LNBF for $38 (I havent put it up yet)Now I'm seriously thinking of pulling the 4DTV and buying a dedicated dish positioner but these are not so easy to find.The only ones I've found are the new 3.5 amp super jack positioner $59 and the Titanium branded one running around $200.I wish GT media would make one!
So..I'm guessing allot of us out here must be using the 20+ year old 4DTV's etc. which are all slowly dying/wearing out!
In my system I have the traditional co-rotor 2 with C/Ku LNB's on a 12 ft paraclipse dish I put up in 1984 the von weise 24" arm is from about 1987 it still in good shape along with a 4DTV receiver that the programming got shut down on 2 years ago as my positioner and H/V polarity.So I bought 2 V8's about 2 years ago and then switched to 2 V7's in January 2017 but the only way to change polarity from H/V is to change the channel from an odd to even number on the 4DTV receiver which makes blind scanning a nightmare on the V7's,but since there's no way to make the V7's or V8's change polarity with the old style corotor2 So I saw a post here and ended up purchasing a Titanium c-band 15 degree LNBF for $38 (I havent put it up yet)Now I'm seriously thinking of pulling the 4DTV and buying a dedicated dish positioner but these are not so easy to find.The only ones I've found are the new 3.5 amp super jack positioner $59 and the Titanium branded one running around $200.I wish GT media would make one!
So..I'm guessing allot of us out here must be using the 20+ year old 4DTV's etc. which are all slowly dying/wearing out!